Humidity Levels in Your House

February 22nd, 2012
Humidity Levels in Your House

The humidity level in your house can be an issue in both the winter and the summer.

Winter humidity levels
In the winter, moisture generated by our activities can lead to too high humidity levels in the house.  High humidity levels within the house can cause moisture to condense on windows, water staining to show on walls, and rust and rotting within your house.  High moisture levels also promote mold growth.

In the winter, we can also have too little moisture in the house.  Because the cold outside winter air is so dry, it affects the indoor relative humidity when it enters our homes.

During the heating season, when the outside air temperature is below 15º, the relative humidity should not exceed 30%  and in very cold weather, the humidity will need to fall below 30% to prevent condensation or frost on windows.

The University of Minnesota has developed guidelines for the minimum recommended humidity levels for houses. Based on a 70ºF interior room temperature, engineering studies established the following guidelines:

Outside Temperature            Inside Humidity

-6.67º to 4.44ºC                           Not over 40%

-12.22º to -6.67ºC                           Not over 35%

-17.78º to -12.22ºC                        Not over 30%

-23.33º to   -17.78ºC                      Not over 25%

-28.89º to –23.33ºC                       Not over 20%

-28.89ºF or below                             Not over 15%

 

These guidelines do not guarantee that condensation will not appear on mirrors or windows.  Factors such as closed blinds or drapes may require you to decrease the relative humidity in your house below these guidelines.

A good rule of thumb for controlling relative humidity in the winter: if frost or condensation forms on your windows, the humidity is too high and you should turn down the humidifier.  If your hardwood floors start to separate, the humidity is too dry and you should turn up your humidifier.  You may need to regularly adjust the humidifier setting and the HRV setting to properly control the humidity in your house.

Typically you should not need to use a humidifier in the winter because of the amount of moisture that is generated during your daily activities.  However, if you find that the humidity is too low, you may need to resort to using your humidifier.

Summer humidity levels
During the summer months when the outside air is humid, humidity levels in the house can rise to high levels.  This becomes a problem when you are cooling your house.  In the same way a cold can of soda “sweats” when you take it out of the refrigerator on a hot summer day, air conditioning can cause your house to cool down to a level where moisture condenses within the house components.

In the summer the relative humidity should not exceed 55% in the main level of the house with proper dehumidification and air conditioning.  You should not operate the humidifier during the summer months. If your hardwood floors show cupping or buckling, the humidity may be too high.  This might also be due to a water leak in your house.  You should close windows to keep warm humid outside air from entering the house.  Using a dehumidifier or the air conditioner to help dry out the house may be necessary.

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LX Series TM9X Model 95.5% AFUE

January 31st, 2012

• Exceptionally quiet sound levels
• Attractive appearance
• Tubular aluminized steel
heat exchanger
• Compact 33-inch height
• High-efficiency air circulating motor
• Efficiency ratings up to 95.5% AFUE
• ENERGY STAR® qualified savings
•Single-stage operation,
high-efficiency motor
•60–120 Mbh input

 

 

 

 

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York LX Series TM9V

January 26th, 2012

York LX Series TM9V

• Exceptionally quiet sound levels

• Attractive appearance

• Tubular aluminized steel
heat exchanger

• Compact 33-inch height

• Efficiency ratings up to 96% AFUE

• ENERGY STAR® qualified savings

• Exclusive ClimaTrak™ technology

• Maximum efficiency through
variable-speed fan motor

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Affinity™ Series YP9C Model

January 24th, 2012

There’s no place like home. Or to
be exact, there’s no place like your
home, the one spot that refl ects
your style and your personality.
So it makes sense to select your
furnace just as you would any
other appliance, by demanding
good looks and innovative design.
It’s possible with York® Affi nity™
Series Furnaces — engineered and
designed from the ground up to
give you more comfort and options
than ever before.

• 98% AFUE effi ciency lowers fuel cost and consumption.

• Reinforced cabinets and gasketed doors ensure

peace and quiet day and night.

• Compact 33-inch height and standard cabinet widths fi t more comfort into less space.

• Modulating design continuously adjusts heating level by .65% increments
(100 step increments) to match the degree of comfort
you need precisely.

• Engineered to combine efficient performance with exceptionally attractive
cabinets — the perfect complement to your home comfort system.
• Feel reassured with an outstanding limited parts warranty, plus
lifetime heat exchanger warranty coverage.
• Exclusive ClimaTrak™ technology on variable-speed
models can match your region’s unique climate and conditions
to improve comfort.
• ENERGY STAR® qualifi ed means more effi ciency
with less electricity.

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Humidifier

January 17th, 2012

When cold, dry air enters your home and is warmed to room temperature, the
relative humidity in the average house can drop to as little as 5%. Compare that to
the average 25% relative humidity of the Sahara Desert and you can understand why
the air inside your home can seriously affect your health and comfort. Since various
studies have estimated that most people spend as much as 90% of their time at
home indoors, there’s reason to be concerned about indoor air quality.

Since the air in your home is always trying to reach its saturation point, it will absorb
water wherever it’s found. That means it is stealing moisture from the bodies of you
and your children, your pets, your furniture and even your house plants. By giving up
moisture to the air, your skin, throat and nasal passages dry out and crack, leading
to various physical discomforts. That’s why many doctors recommend humidifiers for
allergy and asthma sufferers. Research has shown that 30% – 60% relative humidity
is ideal. Outside this range, bacteria, fungi, viruses and mites thrive and multiply. As
these creatures increase in number, so does your risk of being adversely affected.

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HEATING AND COOLING INCENTIVE PROGRAM 2012

January 16th, 2012

Good News

The heating and cooling incentive program will continue in 2012.

2012 Installations:
*Incentives for installations of eligible equipment completed between Jan 1, 2012 and Dec. 31, 2012, must be submitted no later than Feb. 2, 2013.

  • $250 incentive when you have an existing furnace replaced with the purchase and installation of a high-efficiency furnace equipped with an Electronically Commutated Motor (ECM).
  • $250 incentive when you have an existing central air conditioner (CAC) replaced with the purchase and installation of an ENERGY STAR qualified CAC system (NOTE: ENERGY STAR qualified criteria = minimum 14.5 SEER and 12 EER ).
  • $400 incentive when you have an existing CAC replaced with the purchase and installation of a stand-alone CEE “Tier 2″ level central air conditioning system (NOTE: “Tier 2″ level qualified criteria = minimum 15 SEER and 12.5 EER).

Did you know as much as 60% of your annual electricity costs goes towards heating and cooling your home?
It makes sense to look for ways to reduce your usage.

Source: https://saveonenergy.ca/Consumer/Programs/HVAC-Rebates

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York 7.5 Tons Rooftop Unit Installation and Duct Installation- Dec 7, 2011

December 15th, 2011

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Furnace

December 14th, 2011

Your furnace is designed to automatically add heat to your home. By understanding some basics, you can help it to do this efficiently. This will help you to keep some of your hard earned money in your pocket.

There are several types and they are usually grouped by the type of fuel they use. Some of the common types include gas, oil, wood, biomass, and electric.

A special type is used in mobile homes. They use special venting and duct systems and are certified for use in manufactured homes.

We will start by looking at a typical residential gas furnace. These units burn either natural or liquified petroleum (lp) gas.
The heating cycle starts when the thermostat senses that the room temperature is below the setpoint. On newer units, this causes an inducer fan to pull air through the unit establishing adequate combustion airflow. After proper airflow is verified, the gas valve is opened allowing gas to flow. The gas flows through the burners where it is ignited by a spark or the heat from the ignitor. (Older units have what is called a standing pilot which is a small flame that burns constantly to light the gas.)

After the unit senses the flame is lit, the spark or ignitor is turned off. Normally, the gas will burn for approximately two minutes before the blower is started. This prevents blowing cold air out the vents at the start.

After the preset time or at a set temperature, the blower motor is energized and air is blown over the heat exchanger. The air is heated and supplied to the duct system.

When the thermostat senses that no more heat is required, the gas valve is deenergized and the gas is shut off. The blower motor usually runs for another few minutes to cool off the heat exchanger. This can be controlled by either a timer or a temperature switch.

A gas furnace has an input rating that is expressed in btu per hour. This is how the size of the unit is expressed. Common sizes are 40000, 60000, 80000, 100000, and 120000 btu/hr. It is absolutely critical that your unit is the proper size. Not all of the heat that is available from the gas is put into the home’s air. The ratio of the heat output of the unit to the heat content of the gas supplied is the unit’s efficiency or afue. AFUE is short for annual fuel utilization efficiency and is expressed as a percentage. Some common efficiency ratings are 80%, 90%, etc. A higher efficiency unit requires less gas to heat the home and therefore your utility bill is lower.
There are several classes of gas furnaces. Most manufacturers still produce non-condensing models. These units have only one heat exchanger. These units are the least efficient at about 80% and are sometimes referred to as mid efficiency units. These units use metal pipe to exhaust the combustion products from the home. With the price of fuel these days, it is not a good idea to purchase one of these units.

The next class is referred to as high efficiency units. There is no standard as to when a manufacturer can use this phrase to describe their furnace. Therefore, you have to look at the details. In general, for a unit to be considered high efficiency, it should be a condensing furnace. These units have two heat exchangers to get more heat from the unit. Their efficiency rating (afue) is at least 90%. These units extract heat from the exhaust products of the furnace. This produces water which is called condensate. They collect this water and deliver it to a drain system outside the furnace.

The last class is where the units have added features built into them. One such feature is called a variable speed blower motor. In these units a sensor monitors the speed of the blower and adjusts the power supplied to it to provide a desired speed. These blowers are usually quieter and more energy efficient.

Another added feature is where the unit has two gas input rates. These are called two stage furnaces. On the first stage the unit burns less gas and this helps to more closely match the heating load. On the coldest days, the unit can increase it’s output by switching to the second stage firing rate. An advantage of these units is that you normally have longer run cycles which can provide more uniform temperatures throughout the home. These units usually have a slightly higher afue rating. Most of the manufacturers combine this feature with the variable speed blower.

Some advanced units, called modulating gas furnaces, have variable gas input rates. This allows them to very closely match the heating requirements of the home. Usually the units have a built in control that, after a preset amount of operation, increases the gas input. This is continuously done to match the load.

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Heat Pump, The Basics…

December 12th, 2011

With our heat pump basics, you will be able to make more informed hvac decisions. A heat pump works like a normal central air conditioning system. The main difference is that instead of taking the colder months off, the unit must work all year long.

When your thermostat senses a need for cooling, the fan in the furnace or air handler comes to life. This fan blows air over a coil containing refrigerant. The outdoor unit contains a pump which is called a compressor. This compressor pumps the refrigerant to the air handler where heat from the air is transferred to the refrigerant. Then the refrigerant is returned to the outdoor unit. Here another fan pulls air over another coil and the heat is transferred to the outdoor air. This process is repeated over and over until the home is cool.

To provide heat to the home a few components are added to the basic air conditioner. A reversing valve is added to change the direction of refrigerant flow. In the heating mode, this makes the refrigerant temperature higher then the indoor temperature. Therefore, when the refrigerant flows to the indoor unit, heat is transferred to the homes’ air.

When it gets below freezing outside, ice can build up on the outdoor coil. This reduces the units’ ability to provide the required heat. Therefore, a process is required to melt this ice.

That process is called a defrost cycle. Most units use a timer, a thermostat, or a combination of the two to control this process. When the control senses the need, the outside fan is stopped and the reversing valve directs the hot refrigerant to the outdoor coil. This causes the ice to melt and the process is stopped by another thermostat in the outdoor unit.

To keep from blowing cold air into the home, during this process, backup heat is provided by the furnace.

If you live in an area where it regularly drops below freezing, these units may not be right for you.

If you do live in these areas, you can use these units. But, it is usually a good idea to have a control installed so the unit does not run when it is freezing. This is called an outdoor thermostat. When the outdoor temperature drops below its’ setpoint, it can shut off the outdoor unit and use the furnace to provide the required heat.

Because these units provide both heating and cooling, it is even more important that you have the proper size. The wrong size unit will steal money from your pocket the whole year long. That can add up in a hurry!

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HVAC Duct

December 9th, 2011

Your hvac duct system is the heart of your home’s heating and cooling system. Without a healthy system you could be wasting a lot of money. Like the human body, if the heart isn’t healthy you are in trouble.

A duct system provides a controlled path for air flow throughout the home. There are three main parts to the system. A problem in any part results in a sick system.

The first section is called return air. This part provides a path for air from the individual rooms to the inlet of the furnace or air handler. The air is usually cleaned in this section of the system. In a healthy system, fresh air is introduced here. In some cases moisture is required and added here as well.

Next, the air passes into the furnace or air handler. This is where heat is added or removed to make the home comfortable. In most older systems, the filtering was performed here. This was not very convenient for the owner and caused service problems.

Finally, this conditioned air enters the supply section of the system. The purpose of this part of the system is to deliver conditioned air to the individual rooms.

The two main types of supply systems are extended plenum and central plenum. A central plenum system is a system where all of the branch ducts start at the same location called a plenum.

The extended plenum system consists of a supply air plenum which is connected to the outlet of the hvac equipment. The main supply ducts are attached to this and typically run to the end of the home. The size of them is reduced as necessary to maintain adequate air flow. The branch ducts attach to the main ducts and carry the conditioned air to the individual registers.

A special type of hvac duct system is called a high velocity duct system or a mini duct system. These systems have the same basic parts as other systems and operate in much the same way. The main difference is that the ducts are usually a lot smaller. This allows them to fit into existing ceiling, floor, or wall cavities. Typically there are more ducts and more outlets in each room.

These systems are a very good option when you do not want to do major remodeling to add heating and air conditioning ducts. They are commonly used in historic building renovations.

So, how will you know that your hvac duct system is sick? One of the first symptoms will be a whistling, wheezing, or popping noise. This is a sign that the system is working harder than normal to maintain your comfort. It is like the beginning of chest pains for a heart patient.

As the condition gets worse, the next symptom will usually be an abnormally high utility bill. Many times this will go unnoticed until the unit is unable to keep you comfortable. This is where the situation gets really critical. Intervention is required to save your furnace or air conditioner. At this stage, you are still able to help yourself.

If the condition continues for long, serious damage or even death could occur to your hvac system. Then, it is out of your hands and you are at the mercy of the repairman.

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